Canadian Mount Everest Expedition sponsored by Air Canada established many
firsts in addition to placing the first Canadians on the worlds highest
peak. It is a story of the triumph of human nature. Heres how it unfolded...
JULY 15, 1982
Two days prior to
departure for Nepal, members of the Canadian Mount Everest Expedition sponsored by Air
Canada are the subject of a press reception in Toronto. In a nearby booth a man is talking
excitedly on the phone: Christ, cant you get a crew down here in a hurry? This
expedition is something else!
Five years after the
planning began, Canada is waking up to its first attempt to climb the highest mountain in
The bulk of
the 16 climbers, four support personnel and two journalists comprising the expedition set
out from Kathmandu on the long walk-in to Base Camp through the tail end of the monsoon
season. Prior to the rains, 16 tons of equipment have been ferried to just below Everest
by yaks, porters and planes. Two days before leaving, leader Bill March was mistakenly
issued another teams permit to climb Everests West Ridge. He was tempted to
keep it, he says. The West Ridge avoids the infamous Khumbu Icefall that lies in the way
of the Canadians.
Although the trek
can be made in two weeks, the Canadians take three to ensure acclimatization. The narrow
trails cut across the grain of Nepal for 150 miles and over five mountain ranges. The
climbers ascend a total of over 40,000 feet and descend another 30,000, the final touches
of physical and mental preparation.
In Namche Bazaar
below Everest, a meeting between March and Roger Marshall, the original leader of the
team, results in Marshall leaving the expedition on the grounds of a breach of his
All but two of the
expedition members arrive at Base Camp. Jim Elzinga, who had been left behind with torn
leg ligaments after tripping over some baggage, has arranged a helicopter ride part way
and ridden a yak, despite his walking cast, the rest of the distance.
March and Elzinga
issue gear to the 24 Sherpas; Base Camp manager Peter Spear works on load logistics;
mountain rescue expert Tim Auger trains the Sherpas in Canadian climbing techniques and
Laurie Skreslet teaches them how to assemble the tents. Don Serl checks oxygen bottles,
Spear and Dave McNab reconnoitre the lower icefall and John Amatt, Pat Morrow and a few
others contract enteric dysentery.
Base Camp is a
thoroughly unpleasant place, comments Amatt. Its a dump of 30 years of
expeditions, including their human waste. Its on a glacier so you cant bury
the garbage and Sherpa custom doesnt let you burn it. We thought wed be safe
by piping fresh water down from the icefall but, of course, Camp One is just the same
story and its above the icefall.
The Canadian plan is
to lay siege to the mountain, a classic big-mountain strategy if a little out of vogue.
There are three steps to the strategy. First you push the route strong,
expert climbers out on their own finding the route up the mountain. Next, you
fix the route, solidly anchoring the rope with ice screws or snow flukes.
carry each climber and Sherpa bearing one 40-pound
back load of food and
equipment at a time up the now established rope which will secure him if he slips or
falls. On Everest, the Canadians were to fix five miles of rope.
In this manner, the
attack up the mountain takes the form of a pyramid. Base Camp might have 600 loads and 50
people, two-thirds of which will go to Camp I. Then 150 loads go to Camp II and so on
until the highest camp may only require half a dozen loads of supplies vital to the summit
bid by two to four climbers only. Each load is colour-coded in advance for the respective
Everything that goes
up the mountain has to get to Camp I on the other side of the Khumbu Icefall, the most
treacherous section on the whole of Everest.
The Icefall. The one
part of Everest that every Canadian climber has thought about and secretly dreaded since
the day he joined the team. It is a frozen torrent of gigantic blocks of ice. Squeezed
between the flanks of Everest and its neighbour Nuptse, it is in constant motion,
sometimes grinding forward a foot a day, sometimes lurching ten feet in one second
with cataclysmic collapses of its icy cathedrals. More climbers have died in this doorway
to Everest than anywhere else on the mountain.
impression of the icefall was one of sheer horror, says Dave Read. Those
blocks of ice were the size of large houses. It was over 2,000 feet high and involved more
than a mile opening up a route to reach Camp One.
permission to work on the icefall and carry to Camp I between August 20 and the official
start of the climbing season Sept. 1, March, McNab and Skreslet will begin the search
for a route tomorrow.
In only three
days, the route has been pushed to the top of the icefall. Gordon Smith has a narrow
escape but he and Dave Read distinguish themselves fixing ladders and establishing the
route with Skreslet and March. It will still take another two days of bridging and fixing
before the load-carrying can begin.
Half way up the
icefall is a frightening zone of deep crevasses and huge seracs (pillars of ice formed
when a glacier splits apart), where the route tiptoes across ice-blocks wedged into
150 deep crevasses below the level of the icefield. At the top lies another final,
malevolent and insecure section before the floor of the Western Cwm (a Welsh word for
valley) opens up ahead.
The icefall is
a terrifying doorway to the rest of the mountain, says March, the first to reach the
top of the icefall with Skreslet. Above, you feel relief at leaving this mad jumble
of ice and the sense of arriving at an inner sanctum. The first view up the Western Cwm
was one of my golden moments on Everest. I felt privileged.
weather and frequent avalanches down the west shoulder of Everest, over 100 loads have
been carried through the icefall to Camp I.
A typical day begins
at 2 a. m. when the climbers struggle into boots and windproof suits. After a cup of tea
they stumble to the foot of the 3,000-foot fixed rope up through the icefall and begin the
days carry by the light of lamps on their helmets. Dawn at 5 a.m. reveals the
awesome terrain and the reminders: a ladder twisted here, a rope stretched taut here, a
crack where there was no crack yesterday.
The icefall is
Disney World turned upside down, says Pat Morrow. Its a living thing,
moaning and moving an animal. Ive been in some really frightening places but
Ive never experienced anything like this. Usually you can expect to be gone the next
day onto better ground. On Everest, you have to keep going back into that icefall to get
the supplies up. Youre playing the numbers game: the more times you go back in the
more chance of encountering bad news.
And this is the true
terror of the icefall: not one swift, alpine-style dash through danger, but treading the
same dangerous path day after day after day. The emotional strain is hard and it is
unremitting. Climbing Everest requires a resilience and endurance far beyond the realm of
normal alpine climbing.
Carries through the
icefall continue while March, Dave McNab Tim Auger and Alan Burgess probe high into the
miles-long Western Cwm. They reach the moraine at 21,400 feet under the South West face
of Everest and a possible sight for Camp II. High winds and a white-out complicate the
return journey and they collapse exhausted in Camp I, the first to occupy the camp
In the pre-dawn
dark, another carry is underway through the icefall. Pat Morrow and Blair Griffiths with
six Sherpas are several hundred yards ahead of Peter Spear and Rusty Baillie with a second
group of Sherpas. Morrow, who has been breaking trail through fresh snow, radios Camp I
Suddenly, Camp I is
hit by a terrific shock of air, Below, Morrow is knocked breathless and his lifeline keeps
tugging him back into a screaming blast of fine snow as the fixed rope is ripped out of
its anchors. Almost 3,000 feet above them, a mile-wide avalanche has broken loose and a
small, deadly tongue of it licks out in the darkness at the Canadians. Griffiths and the
Sherpas are bruised and shaken.
On the downslope
side of the tongue, Baillie is smashed down the mountain and buried to his chest. Spear is
completely buried but for one foot. Baillie manages to dig him clear with the help of a
Sherpa. Three other Sherpas are missing.
The climbers are
joined by groups from Base Camp and Camp I and mountain rescue expert Tim Auger directs
the search. It is a scene of utter desolation: blocks of ice the size of railway cars
jammed in rock-hard snow. The body of 40-year-old Pasang Sona, an experienced Himalayan
climber, is recovered and Rusty Baillie crawls into a sleeping bag with him to try and
revive him, supervised by high altitude doctor Steve Bezruchka, who also applies CPR and
mouth-to-mouth resuscitation. The efforts are in vain. The bodies of 18 year-old Ang
Chuldim and 40-year-old Dawa Dorje are never found.
The immunity of the
Canadians is ended. The trauma and death that hovers over Himalayan mountaineering has
caught up to them.
In a simple, moving
ceremony, the body of Pasang Sona is cremated on a small mountainside plateau outside the
settlement of Lobuche, six miles below Everest. March, whose sense of duty as a leader is
augmented by a close affinity for the Sherpa community built up over previous expeditions,
has joined the long vigil and mourning. Bezruchka also attends the emotion-wracked
rituals. As the pair makes ready to return to Base Camp, a Sherpa runner arrives with a
terse note for March. Blair Griffiths has been killed in the icefall that morning.
As the weather
cleared in Marchs absence, the team had decided to resume climbing. In a place where
each climber had worked at one time or another, Griffiths was repairing a ladder bridge
with Dave Read, Rusty Baillie and two Sherpas when, without warning, several hundred feet
of the icefall shuddered and collapsed.
one Sherpa managed to scramble from one toppling serac to another; Read and the second
Sherpa were plunged into a crevasse and miraculously spared when two huge ice blocks
jammed together just above their heads, although the Sherpa was buried; Griffiths,
standing only three feet from Baillie, was pinned by a falling serac and died instantly.
Read cleared the trapped Sherpas face and, as Baillie rescued both, the fixed rope
they had been working on swung in the air 25 feet above their heads.
is cremated at Lobuche. The events of the past five days have devastated members of the
team, some of whom have already decided to withdraw.
March exercises his
leadership swiftly but democratically: following a team meeting, each member is asked to
review his commitment to the attempt.
There was no
way I was going to direct anyone to continue, or even ask them to stay. remarks
March. Mountaineering is a calculation of risk and on Everest the risk is high. If a
climber loses his faith in himself he has no choice but to walk away from the mountain.
Each individual had to assess his own feelings and act accordingly. All I insisted on
was that those who wished to leave should do so quickly.
Burgess and Smith are committed to stay and are ultimately joined by Morrow, Read,
Skreslet and Dwayne Congdon. Amatt, who has walked two days to Namche Bazaar to radio
reassurance to the climbers families, opts to remain in a support role alongside
Bezruchka and Base Camp manager Spear. Dave Jones, the Base Camp doctor who has never
successfully acclimatized, leaves for medical reasons. Elzinga, McNab, Baillie, Auger,
Serl and Blench each independently reach the conclusion that this is the wrong mountain
for them at this time and withdraw. Of the high altitude climbers, Marchs team is
decimated with the final count eight to stay and six to leave. All Sherpas who have not
been injured choose to remain.
SEPTEMBER 5 10
In the ensuing days,
Marchs leadership and his personal resolve are tested to the limit. Amatt, unaware
of developments, has met the departing climbers on his trek back into Everest and arrives
at Base Camp convinced the expedition is collapsing into a fiasco and should be cancelled
to minimize bad publicity for their sponsors. Amatts judgment is respected and his
conviction rocks the survivors as they attempt to regroup. After long discussions, Amatt
When Bill and
the others explained the hard facts, I realized we could still succeed, says Amatt.
And the facts were these. One, we already had 120 loads above the icefall. Two, if
we could change our route to the South Col, it would require only half the supplies and
the manpower needed for our original route. And three, that in turn would mean only one
more carry through the icefall and that would be restricted to the experienced climbers
and the best Sherpas. The support personnel would be ordered to stay in Base Camp. Risk
would be kept to the minimum possible on Everest.
But the problems are
far from over. The change of route to the South Col requires permission from the Nepalese
government which in turn demands the approval of a New Zealand team booked for an attempt
on neighbouring Lhotse from just below the Col. Bitter negotiations follow with the
reluctant New Zealanders before an uneasy compromise is reached: the latter would use the
Canadians surplus supplies in Camp I (thus reducing their exposure in the icefall)
and lead the route until September 30, at which time the Canadians could push through.
With a less than satisfactory agreement but with official permits, and with bad weather
stalling any work on the mountain, the hectic strain comes to a sudden halt. Amatt, who
would no longer be permitted to carry through the icefall returns to Kathmandu to act as
expedition spokesman and interpret the climb against a rash of ill-informed coverage.
emotionally exhausted, retires down the valley for six days to complete some expedition
business and to rest.
SEPTEMBER 10 15
For 10 days
following the accidents I could not permit emotions to cloud my decisions as team
leader, says March. I believe this is an essential requisite of leadership
when you are dealing with other peoples lives. I had to divorce my feelings
completely and concentrate on logistics and the practical aspect of whether or not this
expedition could succeed.
As a result, I
know some of the climbers felt I was too hard, particularly when I asked those who were
leaving to go right away. It was tough. There were the logistics of a new team and a new
route and then, of course, just when I think its coming together again we have this
stupid bloody business with the New Zealanders.
result is that all during that time I was never able to examine my own feelings as an
individual climber. I was committed to stay but I hadnt had the chance to come to
grips with it, with the risk it entailed. I have a wife and kids and I was scared and
frightened too. I needed time on my own.
Heading down valley,
March visits his old Sirdar (head Sherpa on an expedition) from a previous climb and, with
him in tow as interpreter, goes to visit the oldest lama in the Khumbu region. After a
long visit, the old Buddhist quietly tells March: there will be no more death. Your
expedition will succeed.
It is unlikely that
there is a single Everest climber who is not aware of, and most probably affected by, the
spiritual atmosphere that envelops this mountain. In Nepalese, Everest is called
Chomolungma, which means Goddess. Mother of the Earth. To the Sherpa people, it is a
sacred and living place. Mountain climbers, more conscious than most of their mortality,
speak frequently in terms of the privilege of seeing its upper reaches. March, who
describes himself as a bit of an unbeliever doesnt doubt the aged lama.
years, says March, everybody here has known that 1982 would be a bad year
throughout the Khumbu region and on Everest. Many people have died in the villages this
year and the Everest season has been one of the worst. Back in 1972 five years ago, a lama
told Tim Auger, who was climbing Pumori, that this year would be bad on Everest and bad
for Tim on Everest too.
Auger was one
of the six who left the Canadian expedition after the four deaths.
gets underway again on the mountain. Burgess breaks trail through heavy snow accompanied
by Morrow and Smith. The icefall route has been without maintenance for two weeks and
requires extensive repair work: ice axes on ropes fish ladders out of the crevasses.
still some loads to go to Camp I and, despite his one-load-per-man order, March
accompanies the Sherpas on three carries over the next three days, past the spot where
Griffiths was killed, past the place where the two Sherpas still lie buried.
Morrow and Smith have pushed up the Western Cwm to occupy Camp II. Gallagher, Read,
Congdon and March are at Camp I and, of the surviving climbers, only Skreslet, who has
been hospitalized with injured ribs down valley, remains below the icefall. The decision
is made to close the icefall although Skreslet, acting on his own, will come up the next
icefall was a team decision and it was a helluva thing to do, says deputy leader
Lloyd Gallagher. That was our lifeline. It meant we were up above with really no
support or escape route if things went wrong. But it was a calculated decision.
The calculation was
to reduce risk by stopping the daily repair parties needed to maintain the icefall route.
And reducing risk had become a much more intense pressure than ever before. It is doubtful
whether this last, grimly determined, group of climbers, could survive another major
accident on the mountain.
those who left would have felt they were right if wed had another bad
accident, reflects March. And those of us who stayed would have been wrong.
There wasnt a wrong and a right but the pressure was there just the same.
With the addition of
Skreslet there will be eight Canadians, 12 Sherpa climbers, a cook and a cookboy above the
icefall, with the only way to go being up.
Progress is rapid
despite some delays due to bad weather and extremely high winds. Camp II is fully stocked
and has become the advanced base of operations. Just above here, the Cwm rises sharply to
the Lhotse Face that blocks the uppermost end and to the climbers left, the peak of
Everest is visible for the first time, soaring into the sky still nearly 8,000 feet above
The work goes well
but the going is hard. The two-mile climb up the gently sloping Cwm to Camp II is
agonizing because of the altitude: the climbers carry one day and then rest for another
to regain strength.
In the hard climbing
since the icefall, the acrimony between the Canadians and the New Zealanders has
disappeared. Adrian Burgess, twin brother of Alan, is a member of the New Zealand team and
Gallagher himself is a Kiwi. Working side by side with the other team, Alan Burgess has
fixed rope to Camp III at 23,400 feet followed by four Sherpas. The attack on the Lhotse
face begins as Dwayne Congdon pushes the route above the camp.
In the next
four days, the rugged determination that kept the Canadian climbers on Everest will be
flung against the Lhotse Face that guards the final, upper reaches. Each day will demand
new courage, new willpower and produces superb individual efforts.
Camp II, Alan and Adrian Burgess considered one of the strongest climbing
combinations in the world fix to below the Yellow Band, a well-known Everest
feature that slashes across the Lhotse route at 24,000 feet. That night, March and Morrow
occupy Camp III a staging camp consisting of two small tents huddled under an
overhang to take over the next day.
unheard by March and Morrow against the shriek of the wind, an avalanche has swept away
the rope fixed by the Burgess twins. The setback is even more demoralizing than having to
refix the 500 before continuing the push.
It was a
mind-blower, because this was a really innocuous spot, says Morrow. Wed
been working in some pretty horrendous spots and got used to it, but here was a rope
ripped away on a face that was bare the day before. Thered been enough spindrift
packed by the wind to create an avalanche that could do this. I really took extra special
care from that point on.
March and Morrow
replace the rope and get through the 200 foot high Yellow Band before Morrow turns back
with malfunctioning oxygen equipment. March, also on oxygen, fixes another 800 with
Sherpas Lhakpa Done and Lhakpa Tshering.
use of oxygen is considered premature by some of the team who follow the philosophy of
Austrian climber Reinhold Messner. One of only two men to climb Everest without oxygen,
Messner maintains the South Col (26,100) should be gained with careful acclimatization
before oxygen is needed.
cant afford the time, counters March. On Everest you have to push every
minute. When the weather is good enough for climbing you have to use it; theres a
limit to how long you can stay on the mountain. I knew we had to fix to the South Colas
fast as possible and that meant using oxygen.
It was a
decision that would ultimately make the summit ascents possible.
Smith, with two Sherpas, push the rope to over 25,500 feet. The work is mind-numbing and
team members joke wryly about the yak route, the nickname given by the
fun-loving Sherpas to this most widely traveled of all Everest ascent routes.
oxygen its rough, concedes March. There you are with the wind howling
spindrift in your face Skreslet was blown right off the Yellow Band and only saved
by the fixed rope and with goggles and an oxygen mask on so you cant see your
feet. Youre teetering on your front points using all the strength in both arms to
screw in an ice screw with the handle of your axe. Youve got 37 pounds of bottles on
your back and youre dragging a rope. Im a good technical ice climber but I
tell you that was hard. You build a lot of respect for Hillary doing it the first time 30
The winds are too
high, gusting over 100 mph (60 mph will blow a man off his feet.) The Canadians are beaten
back to Camp II where they regroup. Deterioration is becoming marked after three weeks
above 21,000 feet. The limits of their endurance are close and climbing is impossible.
There is talk of returning to Base Camp but Gallagher insists on staying on the mountain,
feeling a break in the weather is imminent.
gone back down below the icefall at this point, the Sherpas would have given up and we
would have lost our drive too, says Gallagher. Everyone was completely wasted.
The only thing keeping us going was the fact of being so close to it after so
two days of inactivity, despite inhuman conditions, Alan Burgess with Sundare and Lhakpa
Dorje push through to the South Col in a heroic effort. Burgess is the strongest climber
on the team, but this push means he is not likely to recover enough strength to be in the
first summit attempt. Everest is one of the ultimate proving grounds of teamwork.
team and the changed route since the deaths in the icefall have drastically altered the
Canadians strategy on the mountain. The classic siege tactics that built up Camp I
are no longer possible and have given way to a more flexible, alpine style of ascent
using Camp II as an advance base.
push through the South Col, with a clear window in the weather of unknown
duration, the Canadians opt for a daring summit attack that will dispense with the normal
Camp V, 1,500 feet below the summit. The plan calls for a summit team to climb from Camp
II to Camp IV in one day, then gain the peak 3,000 feet higher and return to Camp II on
the next day. It is a round-trip of 16,000 vertical feet in two days, unheard of on
A summit team of
Skreslet, Gallagher, Sundare and Lhakpa Dorje sets out for Camp IV, backed by every
available Sherpa climbing without oxygen in order to carry more supplies. Dave Read, who
considers reaching the South Col will be his personal summit, climbs with the group. Just
below 26,000 feet, having dropped behind with malfunctioning oxygen equipment, an
exhausted Gallagher realizes he will have to turn back. (See box).
In Camp IV there is
now not sufficient oxygen for both Read and Skreslet.
It was obvious
that Laurie was in the best condition, says Read, so at 2 a.m. I fed him tea
and got him ready.
Shortly after 4 a.m.
Skreslet, with Sundare and Lhakpa Dorje, set out for the summit.
The first ten
minutes was stop and go while we organized, then we climbed bare, smooth green ice for 50
minutes, says Skreslet. The Sherpas were setting a fast pace and I had to stop
a couple of times. I was afraid if I cranked up the oxygen, Id run out. Above the
ice was knee-deep, crusted snow and the going was heavy; Id have to rest every few
steps. There were so many things that could go wrong. We were so exhausted.
one foot in front of the other each time with an agony of effort, Skreslet approaches the
summit after five hours of climbing. Sundare is first on the narrow ridge and a few
seconds later, the first Canadian stands on the peak of Everest. Skreslets only
feeling at first is relief. After 30 minutes, they start back down.
With the weather
holding, Camp IV is restocked for a second summit bid. No Sherpas are able to carry and
Congdon gets two bottles of oxygen to Camp IV from Camp II and returns the same day. Smith
gets another two bottles to within 100 feet of the last traverse to the South Col. Pat
Morrow, Alan Burgess, Pema Dorje and Lhakpa Tshering occupy Camp IV for a summit attempt
the next day.
After only one hour
of climbing, the regulator on Burgess oxygen equipment malfunctions. While Morrow
waits slightly further up the ridge, Burgess and the Sherpas wrestle with it for an hour
while clinging upright to the steep face. Finally, with a tired wave up the mountain,
Burgess turns back. Within sight of the summit, it is his second bitter defeat on Everest
within a year, having been beaten back by high winds the previous winter on a British
expedition. Further down the mountain, on hearing the news on the radio, Burgess
teammates weep for him. He returns to Camp II without having used oxygen at all.
At 11.30 a.m.
Morrow, Pema Dorje and Lhakpa Tshering embrace on the summit. By 6.30 p.m., in the
gathering dark, they are back in Camp II. Against extreme odds, the Canadian Mount Everest
Expedition has placed two team members and four Sherpas on the peak of Everest.
window in the weather that has permitted two successful summit climbs in five
days closes. The previous day Skreslet, Gallagher, Read and Congdon have descended through
a horror show of an icefall with eight Sherpas. Now March, Smith, Burgess
and Morrow descend with the remaining Sherpas.
But the trials of
Everest are not over, Pema Dorje, snow-blind after removing his goggles which had been
steaming up, is led painstakingly on a dog-lead of a rope. Burgess brings him
to Camp I and March guides him through the treacherous icefall that has been closed for
Below the fatal
traverse section, March hands Dorje over to Sherpas who have climbed from Base Camp. March
is the last to descend the fixed rope to the glacier floor and the run-out to Base Camp.
At the foot of the
icefall, Gallagher greets him with a can of beer. They collapse, crying, in each
JANUARY 13, 1983
in the evening, in a Toronto hotel cocktail lounge, Lloyd Gallagher is reflecting upon the
events that took place 15,000 miles away. Two hours earlier, he, March and Amatt had been
honoured among a glittering display of Canadas top athletes at the annual Canadian
Sports Federation Dinner, one in a long succession of similar evenings since their return.
When it was
over, when Bill was the last down the rope, you could only feel relief, he says
quietly. Climbing Everest is such a long, drawn-out business of stress, physical
exhaustion and constant danger. When you walk away from that mountain, you can only feel
glad youre still alive.